A Leap in Hot Dog Technology
To make the new carrot dog for By Chloe, the chef Will Horowitz and his sister, Julie Horowitz, who own Harry & Ida’s in the East Village, cure large carrots for several days. Then they slow-smoke them. The process takes about a week. The result is a properly smoky-tasting hot-dog look-alike, grilled and nestled in a bun with mustard and sauerkraut. The texture is crunchy, not succulent and still carrot. It’s a tasty novelty and one that Samantha Wasser, a founder of By Chloe, a fast-casual chain that uses only plant-based ingredients, considered to be perfect for her restaurants. She said she loved that it wasn’t highly processed, “unlike most plant-based meat substitutes like burgers and sausages.” Mr. Horowitz, who is known for his real pastrami, is increasingly experimenting with vegetables like radishes that look like cured meat and smoked celery root to mimic turkey. “I’m starting to pivot our entire smokehouse business in this direction,” he said.
Carrot Dog, $6.75, By Chloe restaurants, eatbychloe.com.
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Florence Fabricant is a food and wine writer. She writes the weekly Front Burner and Off the Menu columns, as well as the Pairings column, which appears alongside the monthly wine reviews. She has also written 12 cookbooks.
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